When ICE District opened in 2016, the sports bars soon followed, but over the years, finer establishments have set up along 104th Street, many of which have appeared on Edify’s Best Restaurants lists. The newest — in fact, the best newest — is Bernadette’s, which on this weirdly rainy winter evening is so busy we make reservations for 8 p.m.
Tonight the Oilers play in Chicago, but if Bernadette’s was on Randolph Street — one of North America’s best food districts a few blocks from the United Center — it wouldn’t be out of place.
Bernadette’s is an Indigenous restaurant that serves seasonal dishes “dedicated to our grandmothers.” But the small space — with its colourful mural by sakâw nêhiyaw-Métis iskwew artist bb iskwew, and Indigenous dubstep blaring — doesn’t give grandmother vibes, unless your grandmother was really cool.
The dishes rotate based on the weather and whims of Chef Scott Iserhoff (Attawapiskat), but the oysters are an early contender for the restaurant’s marquee dish. Bannock is always a treat, especially when piled high with Bernadette’s brisket. And out of any raw meat served in Edmonton (carpaccio, sashimi, steak tartare), the Raw Elk is the most tender we’ve tried.
With experimental (and “political”) dishes and drinks — and a surprising amount of Spam on the menu — we suggest heading down to 104th Street, whether the Oilers play or not, and to be deliciously delighted. — Cory Schachtel
Bernadette’s
Downtown | 10114 104 St NW, Edmonton | 587.879.4317 | bernadettes.ca
Chef Daniel Costa has been busy this year with the openings of Bar Henry, Va, Olia and Mimi. All four of these spots are worth a visit, and all four make Edmonton’s downtown dining scene that much better. But Olia captures the spirit of what has long made us fans of Costa’s Italian restaurants, and made it easier to say goodbye to a beloved spot.
When Costa shared that Best Restaurants staple Uccellino would close, he promised it would re-open in a new location further down Jasper Avenue under a new name with a refreshed menu. We luckily only had to wait one month for its reincarnation, Olia. From the day reservations became available, guests were eager to secure coveted Friday or Saturday night spots — at the time of writing, reservations are booking up seven weeks out. It is well worth the wait to eat favourites like Whipped Goat Ricotta — with large pools of flavourful olive oil atop perfectly crunchy bread — and try new pasta dishes like the Tagliatelle Verde. For a unique experience, order the pasta flight to try a variety that isn’t available on the regular menu. Consistently exceptional food, impeccable service, and a buzzy, lively dining room make this spot a must try. – Breanna Mroczek
Olia
Wîhkwêntôwin | 12016 Jasper Ave NW, Edmonton | 780.244.5156 | olia-ristorante.ca
“It’s not a restaurant — it’s an experience.” This food-writing cliche is less common than the ubiquitous “meat falls off the bone,” but it’s a cliche nonetheless, and I’m proud to have not used it so far.
But when I go to MSSM, which opened in Edmonton Tower late last fall, I gotta say… it really is an experience.
The specific experience is omakase, which means “I leave it up to the chef,” and it actually starts when you book an online reservation, which comes with dining instructions. Outside of dietary restrictions, don’t ask for substitutions. Your chef will ask if you like a lot or a little wasabi, so there’s no need to add more (same goes for soy sauce). Eat the sushi with your hands, immediately after it’s placed on your serving plate, and use the traditional finger cloth (yubifuki) as a finger dabber, not a napkin. And be prompt, because you’ll be sharing the experience with strangers at specific times for lunch and dinner services (it only offers an à la carte menu for walk ins after Oilers home games).
Masaki Saito — the only person in the world with two Michelin stars in both New York and Toronto, the site of the first MSSM — has passed on his Edomae-style sushi knowledge (fresh raw fish and cooked rice, seasoned with vinegar) to a select group of people who call themselves his students, not chefs.
And as you watch their delicate precision it becomes plain: These people aren’t working at a restaurant, they’re engaged in lifelong, food-based discipline, and we get to delight in the fresh fruits (raw fish) of their diligence. — Cory Schachtel
MSSM
Downtown | 10111 104 Ave NW #118, Edmonton | 780.906.9183 | mssmedmonton.ca
First, there was Kasey Ramen, which made amazing take-home ramen kits. And that begat Menya Mori, a spot that not only serves great ramen, but looks to broaden our very Western understanding of the broth and noodles.
For most of us, ramen is all about the pork tonkotsu broth. Here in Edmonton, it’s become ubiquitous. Maybe we add some black garlic if we’re feeling crazy.
But Menya Mori serves more than the old standard, showing us that ramen has many different flavours and varieties. And one taste of the Tokyo broth may just change your world. It’s deep, there’s tang, some zing, and it’s absolutely addictive. – Steven Sandor
Menya Mori
Westmount | 10350 124 St NW, Edmonton | menyamori.com
There’s an unspoken agreement that exists most times when you go out to eat: come in, have a few drinks, maybe order a round of appetizers for the table, dig into your mains, some dessert if you’re feeling frisky and then make your way out — ideally all within a two- or three-hour window. Overstay your welcome and you might notice the server stopping by the table to ask through a tight smile whether you’ll be needing anything else. To be fair, it’s not about politeness or hospitality as much as simple economics.
At KohSaar Grill, though, you really get the sense that you’re welcome to stay as long as you’d like. From the moment you first sink into the plush lounge seating, you’re greeted by servers who don’t just take your order, but make sure that it’s perfectly suited to your tastes. Look around at your fellow patrons and you’ll notice the relaxed expressions of folks completely at home, and after digging into the authentic Pakistani comforts being churned out of the kitchen, you’ll know exactly why. Complete with flavourful dishes, cozy decor and even a purpose-built prayer room, KohSaar is equal parts restaurant, community hub and culinary escape, no matter where you call home. – Tom Ndekezi
KohSaar Grill
Strathcona Industrial Park | 3535 Gateway Blvd NW, Edmonton | 825.401.8014 | kohsaargrill.ca
