Nero
A new taste experience in one of Edmonton’s oldest and most storied locations awaits diners at Nero, the latest venture by long-time restaurateurs Dave Manna and Joe Viana. Located in the historic Molson building in the Brewery District, Nero adds a layer of pomp and polish to its Italian offerings for diners who have long enjoyed the business partners’ wildly successful pizza and pasta ventures, Rosso and Bianco. The food at Nero covers some of the same ground but kicks things up with an inspired restoration of the building featuring a cocktail bar characterized by old-world elegance.
Nero’s large menu reflects the cuisine of central Italy: there is no shortage of cheese. But for the modern diner as interested in greens as gnocchi, there is a pleasing array of vegetarian options. And breads are made in-house; don’t miss the Crostini al Funghi, a savoury jumble of maitake, shimeji and shiitake mushrooms served on buttery, lightly grilled sourdough.
But what makes Nero an outstanding experience is the way the restaurant feels. It’s like being in Rome — really. The black and white banquettes are etched in velvety brocade. The wallpaper channels Raphael.
As is the trend now and seemingly forever, restaurant patrons are encouraged to share plates. Nero servers bring out the food in a careful procession so that it doesn’t overwhelm. There are Italian classics (Parmigiano this, mortadella that) but executive chef Kunal Sawhney keeps it fresh with infusions of mint, basil and lemon. You may feel sated by the meal, but you would be foolish to skip the rich espresso chocolate budino for dessert. Moderation? That’s for another day. — Liane Faulder
Nero
Wîhkwêntôwin | 12068 104 Ave NW, Edmonton | neroeats.com
Atrium at Sabor
Days after an evening at Atrium at Sabor — the latest in the Sabor coterie of eateries — my mind drifted back to its spareness and its detail. This new location provides chef and co-owner Lino Oliveira a fresh canvas after his 30 years in the business in Portugal and Edmonton.
There is a luxe raw bar featuring fresh chilled seafood, with such surprises as Smoked Scallop Ceviche with jalapeño crema and pickled shallots. The Continental menu focuses on a small selection of dishes, each carefully composed. Braised Beef Cheek atop layers of spinach and potato purée comprises an elevated comfort food. Lobster Spaghetti with cheddar, cream and tomato is a sassy invitation to make mischief.
The downtown restaurant is in the soaring lobby of the Revillon Boardwalk Building, arguably cavernous with towers of brick and black ductwork on two sides and extravagant glass panels on two more, but it feels intimate. Each granite-topped table is cast in the light of a tiny lantern, creating a gathering spot for conversation, delicate sips and thoughtful flavours. Tables for two cluster around a grand piano, where co-owner Christian Mena (a Broadway alumnus) and other musicians entertain diners, but there are also nook-ish corners for larger parties.