The name is the Mill Creek Cafe, but it feels more like a diner. It’s my starting point for exploring Edmonton’s French Quarter. It is contested whether the cafe — and that entire side of the 82nd Avenue bridge — is actually part of the French Quarter, but for my purposes, this is where the adventure starts.
The cafe has lots of natural light, the coffee is served from a station swarmed with eclectic mugs, and display cases show treats you can eat here or take home. Every table is busy, every person is doing something. The low hum of activity is broken only by the jangle of cutlery.
I order an egg-washed Monte Cristo sandwich alongside a heap of chips and salsa. It arrives quickly and, along with copious self-serve coffee, makes an excellent start to the morning.
Mill Creek Ravine runs north to south, with a long, flag-bearing bridge on 82 (Whyte) Avenue. The eastern side of this bridge marks the location of the city’s first French community, before the amalgamation of Strathcona and Edmonton.
The dense foliage and staggering number of paths in the Mill Creek Ravine are almost enough to convince me I’ve been transported out of the city. The paths are mostly paved and make for easy walking or biking. Brightly painted houses perched along the edge of the ravine comprise an eclectic range of architecture, from humble bungalows to multi-storey modern houses and sharp-angled mid-century homes.
Between 84th Avenue and 86th Avenue, the ravine’s trails connect to the University of Alberta’s Campus Saint-Jean. The campus first opened in 1911 as Juniorat Saint-Jean before combining with the Jesuit College to become the University of Ottawa-associated Collège Saint-Jean in 1942. In 1963 it became associated with the U of A, and became a campus of the university in 2005.
Across 91st Street is La Cité Francophone, a multi-use building that hosts the French Quarter Market and other events, including Flying Canoe Volante, throughout the year. The building’s glass-and-concrete construction around a central atrium pairs with vibrant red railings and balconies in a piece of notable architecture. The atrium and outdoor sitting area provide ample gathering space.
La Cité Francophone is also the home to the charming Café Bicyclette. In the morning you have your pick of fresh sweet and savoury crepes, and for the rest of the day the cafe serves classic French Canadian fare including Croque-monsieur and poutine.
Just north, on 88th Avenue, is Duggan’s Boundary Irish Pub. The big, single-storey Tudor-style building has an inviting room for meeting friends or grabbing a quick bite. Wood panelling, antiques, sports on the TVs — if you’re imagining an Irish pub there’s a good chance you are picturing Duggan’s.
Soup, sandwiches and spice bags — this pub has it all. Never heard of a spice bag? Worry not. The Irish street food staple is a bag full of fries, bell pepper, onion, chicken, spice blend and curry sauce. Still not satisfied? There’s pizza, stews and butter chicken, and an entire menu of gluten-free options. If you can’t find something you fancy, you aren’t hungry.
Like any day exploring somewhere new or somewhere you’ve been a thousand times, you can’t pack it all into one day. That’s the case with the French Quarter, and there are plenty of other attractions in this neighbourhood.
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