Gallery the hunter, figure of French tales, loved to hunt so much he refused to go to church on Sunday. This obsession condemned him to fly the skies forever — chased by wild spirits, wolves and anything taken in his love of the hunt. Years of oral storytelling merged this French fable with the Indigenous lore of a flying canoe, giving rise to La Chasse-Galerie — or the legend of the flying canoe.
In this intercultural version, homesick woodcutters along the Ottawa River on New Year’s Eve made a deal with the devil. The devil agreed to fly the woodcutters home in their canoes if they refrained from saying God’s name or touching a church steeple. The loggers broke these rules and were banished to fly the skies forever. This story existed orally for centuries, and Honoré Beauregard preserved it on paper in the 1890s.
Edmonton’s Flying Canoë festival, organized by La Cité Francophone, brings this legend to the currents of Edmonton’s Mill Creek Ravine.
“Because the story is about interconnected Indigenous and French and Métis culture, the festival is the celebration of these three cultures who get together to celebrate with all of Edmonton in the magic and the wonder of a long winter’s night,” says Daniel Cournoyer, executive director of La Cité Francophone.
La Cité Francophone adapted this festival from the Mill Creek Adventure Walk, an illuminated stroll that used to be held by the Winter Light festival. When Cournoyer first envisioned the festival, he considered introducing a new theme each year. But the flying canoe quickly became a defining element.
“There’s this beer from Quebec called La Maudite, and on it is the image of the flying canoe,” Cournoyer jokes. “I must have been having one, and it inspired me.”
Beer or no beer, the theme has stuck with the festival, which has only grown ever since. According to Cournoyer, the first year of the festival drew in approximately 3,000 to 3,500 people — fast forward 12 years, and they pull in upwards of 100,000 people.
“We’ve seen the programming go from a short walk in the Mill Creek Ravine to a robust, beautiful, magical lantern walk.”
The festival, which runs from January 29 to February 1 in partnership with organizations such as Native Counselling Services of Alberta and the Cunningham Family Band, emphasizes one of the festival’s primary goals — getting people involved in the action. Whether swaying or singing along to the songs, Cournoyer stirs festival goers to step beyond standing on the sidelines and simply spectating.
“I don’t want people to observe culture — I want people to partake,” he says. “The idea is to lend one’s hand and hold the hand of your Indigenous community member and do a friendship dance. To dance at a jig and reel with your Métis [community member], or just your everyday average Edmontonian.”
This year’s programming includes geodesic domes bursting with live music, dancing, food and drink, illuminated artwork, and more. The musical lineup spans a spectrum of sounds, from the beats of electronic pop and rhythm and blues to the timeless tunes of traditional folk, ensuring there’s something to captivate a variety of listeners.
A fresh highlight this year is Pride Night, organized by the FrancoQueer association, which includes a vibrant drag show and a DJ from the 2SLGBTQ+ community. The festival will also debut its projection dome this year, offering 360-degree immersive experiences for both adults and children in French and English. The festival’s legendary tales will take on fresh twists, brought to life by Roger Dallaire, French-Canadian storyteller. Instead of voyageurs condemned to canoes, his reimagined stories feature Fort McMurray workers banished to the skies in Ford F-150s, blending tradition with Albertan humour.
When considering the festival’s 13-year run, Cournoyer reflects on what it has meant to Edmonton and the broader community.
“I’m glad that the community has embraced it and shared its love and magic,” he says. “Friends and families come out, and our numbers indicate people are coming from the U.S., people are coming from out of province… those are the things that light me up — just to see people coming and smiling and really, that sense of community.”
Stroll through shimmering lights, sample savoury bannock, or settle in for storytelling at this year’s Flying Canoë Volant festival.
