Olia
In 2011, when Edify recognized Daniel Costa as one of Edmonton’s Top 40 Under 40, writer Michael Hingston characterized his dedication to food and craft as “near religious.” Fifteen years on, it’s safe to say that the church of Costa has risen. The chef and restaurateur owns six eateries in Edmonton, all of which share the same quality and flair that helped make Costa a local household name. And though all are worthy of your attention, Olia is the jewel in the crown.
The expansive dining room, draped in warm beige tones, is perennially bustling. Inspired by traditional Italian cuisine, the menu is divided into sections that punctuate a classic Italian meal. The antipasti section is filled with options that are easy to say yes to, including Whipped Goat Ricotta and Beef Tartare Piemontese. And Arancini, a dish of crisp and tender rice balls made with leeks, truffles and a selection of cheeses, is a Costa classic. The primi course is for the pasta lovers. A sucker for simplicity, I usually opt for the Tagliatelle. The house-made noodles are perfectly cooked and bathed in butter, sage and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
And you’ll want to save room for the secondi — the main protein course in a traditional Italian meal. Dishes like the Game Hen Treviso and Bistecca (Olia’s thick-cut T-bone) do not disappoint. As you peruse the menu, you’ll notice other local culinary names, like Irvings Farm Fresh, pork producers near Edmonton, and Delavoye Chocolate Maker, the boutique chocolatier on 124 Street. The latter provides the essential ingredient for Olia’s truly special Chocolate Torta, a delectable way to top off your evening. Or, if you’re like me, you could just order another plate of Arancini. They are a little taste of heaven. – Zachary Ayotte
Olia
Wîhkwêntôwin | 12016 Jasper Ave, Edmonton | olia-ristorante.ca
Fu’s Repair Shop
Picture this: three (nearly) middle-aged moms crowded around a table at Fu’s Repair Shop, slightly tipsy and high on the freedom of a night out. Suddenly, dish after dish begins to appear. Soft, sweet Chan Bao with a shock of salt, Crazy Rich Rice Noodles with perfectly fried tofu, and indulgent Classic Crispy House Dumplings.
The atmosphere is dark, mysterious, alluring. The trio is nearly moved to tears by their meal. When a young waiter arrives with the bill, he casually asks what their plans are for the night. It’s all they can do not to shout: “This! This is it! What more could we want?”
Regardless of age or family status, Fu’s is a complete night out. First, you walk through a doorway that makes you feel like you are gliding into a speakeasy, then you are in the substantial dining room, festooned with flickering candles and red lanterns hanging from the ceiling. You feel plucked from Jasper Avenue and transported to a dimension where high-end dining naturally pairs with obsolete electronics, which are a feature of Fu’s eclectic décor.