Is the cuisine at this cozy downtown spot rustic or ultra-modern? My wife and I had this discussion during our recent visit. Favourites like the Fried Chicken Skins with a powerful mustard sauce scream “old school,” but a crudo of sea bream with a wonderfully odd mix of apple and spice was totally nouvelle cuisine. Dishes are meant to be shared, so order four or five for the table. One thing I couldn’t ignore: pretty well every table had a plate of the Gnocchi Parisienne on it. It’s a memorable dish, with the fluffy dumplings coated in cheese that had been slightly browned. Is it modern or rustic? Does it matter?