I was due for a haircut.
My last cut was a year ago. That was also during a time in my life when styling my hair meant blowdrying it after every wash — it felt like the only solution to my frizz. My hair is curly, like 3A curly. For those of you who do not know this metric, let me enlighten you.
There is a curly hair typing system that helps identify curl tightness — type 1s are straight, type 2s are wavy, type 3s are curly and type 4s are coily; the letters refer to the diameter of the curl, A means loose, B medium and C tight.
For my 3A hair think Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex and the City (early seasons) or Zendaya (the only time I can ever compare myself to her).
A month ago, I started leaning into accepting my curly hair. (Better late than never.) Or as some call it, “curly hair training” — the art of taming your mane. I’m calling it the beginning of my curly-hair journey.
My first stop: Hair Wizardry — a salon with 75 per cent of its staff trained in curly hair. Brenda Hermann, owner and stylist, noticed that curly hair people had been neglected in the industry for many years. “Nobody catered to you, they just wanted to straighten your hair, texture it, thin it and send you on your way,” she says. It is important to her that her clients understand their hair and are not left clueless about what to do with it next.
As a curly-haired girl herself, Hermann understands the frustration of going to a stylist and having them cut your hair with straight hair in mind. Washing it first, cutting it when wet (not having a clear idea of your natural curly pattern), and my biggest pet peeve: having them straighten my hair before sending me on my way. Don’t get me wrong, I do love a good makeover at the end of a cut but I also want to see what the cut looks like on my real hair. It is nerve wracking to leave the salon not knowing what you are going to get in your next wash.
When I sat down on the chair, before even touching my hair, Hermann started with her pre-cut consultation. “What are we looking for?” she asked.
I had a vague idea of what I wanted my hair to look like but I knew exactly what I wanted it to feel like: light and healthy. She talked volume, she talked layers and she made sure I understood what to expect with every snip.
I also appreciated her talking about face framing. I had a terrible experience once with bangs … on curly hair … without my consent. Think poodle.
“Don’t worry, nothing above the chin,” she said seconds before suggesting trimming the front pieces just a tiny bit.
Every stylist in every salon will cut hair differently, reflecting their own style and expertise.
As someone who trained under Nubia Rëzo — a master hairstylist based in New York who specializes in curly hair — Hermann thought the Rëzo Cut technique was for me: done on dry hair, divided into triangular sections and cut in circular motions. This is a technique that fixes the pyramid shape nightmare and loosens up the roots so the hair can actually flow.
Brenda is also certified under DevaCurl — a hair brand that focuses on hydrating and nourishing curls to reduce frizz and increase shine. Unlike the Rëzo Cut, which keeps the same length all around, the DevaCut technique prioritizes face-framing and curl-by-curl shaping.
When it came to the washing and conditioning, Hermann said “the biggest thing with curls is hydration, the more you have, the better the curls.” I might have known something about moisture treatment but never the technicalities. “You want water to not only condition but to penetrate deeper … and close the cuticles.” A haircare product (like those made by DevaCurl) is a tool to help the hair retain water — so don’t forget to “drizzle a bit of water while you are applying it.”
The key to creating a nice curl without frizz is to cast it — the technique where mousse or gel is applied to wet hair to create a stiff shell. A mistake a lot of people make is to begin styling their hair before it is completely dry. (I was one of those people.) Once your hair feels like it could break with any movement, that’s when you apply some oil to your hands and scrunch the hell out of it.
The result: perfectly bouncy, natural looking curls — an effortless look that took only an hour or so to achieve.
I have always had a love-hate relationship with my hair, but proper treatment helps me start to appreciate it and moves me a step closer to mastering the art of curly hair.
Do this right out of the shower (your hair must be soaking wet). Warning: there can never be enough scrunching.
Hair Wizardry
Jackson Heights | 4339 50 Street NW, Edmonton | hairwizardrysalon.com
