But, for Andersen, and farmers around the world (and anyone who likes eating food), the number that matters most immediately is precipitation. “Food grows where water flows,” she said. “Temperature can go up a few degrees and our production increases as long as there’s still water. But, if it’s a drought year like this, well, it’s a good wake-up call, in a way: We had the most beautiful crops when the season started. And now we have 20 per cent yield.”
As we talked one sunny August morning at Prairie Gardens, she paused to help a few early-bird customers check out some trees and peruse some perfectly tart crab apples, and suggested they take a train ride around the adorable farm. Her joy in sharing her life’s work with city folk was palpable, the only thing that compared to growing food itself. “One of the beautiful things we do here is connect people back to the land, put their feet firmly on the topsoil, and ground them on our planet. We educate and share our values with them, and they get to pick some vegetables and learn about food production and being self-sustainable, with the hope it leads to some further action down the line. Whether its guerrilla gardening in their neighbourhoods or planting sunflowers in their alleys to feed the bees, we’re sowing seeds of thought.”
“You can’t buy rain. But you can adapt and innovate.” Steele Perrett works for Jeff Nonay on his family’s farm, Lakeside Dairy, about 10 minutes northwest of Prairie Gardens, near Legal. At 21, Perrett started his own farm and grew it to 6,000 acres in 10 years. During that time came five years of agricultural disaster, starting in 2015. Because he started from scratch versus inheriting a family farm, and his crop insurance baseline was set during lean years, it put him out of business. He then chose to work at Lakeside because “Jeff thinks outside the box,” and Nonay hired him because “Steele is accelerating what we’re doing.”
What Lakeside’s been doing since 2000 is reading and reacting to the ever-changing environment. Both men see value in coming technologies that can keep costs down and carbon in the ground, but they have no interest in doing nothing — or the same thing — until they arrive. Nonay touted investing in high genomic heifers that produce milk more efficiently, crop rotation, mixing discarded drywall into compost and tilling as little as possible (in some cases not at all) to leave nutrient-rich, disease-dampening beds for next year’s crops as “low-hanging fruit” that farmers can already reach.