Page 22 - 07_Sept-2025

Delish
Dining
Nero delivers old-world charm and
contemporary comfort in equal measure
by Liane Faulder
Located in the historic Molson building anchoring the
Brewery District, the new Italian eatery Nero buffs up the
brick and bones of the 1913 structure with a $3-million
restoration featuring vintage touches. A glittering array of
chandeliers, waxy candelabra and brocade banquettes in the
100-seat restaurant creates an atmosphere that’s both elegant
and comfortable. Custom-designed wallpaper shines with a
baroque sensibility and gilt-framed prints over high-top tables
evoke Rome.
That old-world sense of place is what Dave Manna had in
mind when he created Nero along with his longtime business
partner, Joe Viana. Inspired by numerous trips to Italy, Manna
wanted to bring a taste of that country back to Edmonton, where
he was raised by Italian immigrants to appreciate good food.
It’s not the first time the duo has imported a Mediterranean
experience; Rosso Pizzeria has been wood-firing Neapolitan
pies since 2013, and in 2019, Bianco introduced its own
scratch-made pasta to the city. Now, with Nero, the food
tourists bring fellow gastronomes along on another culinary
journey, one that combines continental charm with a comforting
piece of Edmonton’s own history that continues to evolve.
While the Nero menu is extensive, reflecting dishes from
the central region, it retains a sacred space for the pasta
and pizza that have secured the owners’ reputation for
quality and value (in case you were worried). But executive
chef Kunal Sawney (who also runs the kitchen at Bianco and
is part owner of Nero) takes a lighter approach elsewhere
on the Nero menu. A more-than-perfunctory nod to meat-
less dishes balances a robust carne selection (with a stand-
out 16-ounce Kurobuta pork chop) and a pleasing pastry and
photos ASPEN ZETTEL
22 EDify. SEPTEMBER.25