Page 23 - 07_Sept-2025

bread program. Most items on the antipasto and contorni
menu are veggie-forward.
We started with a classic crostini ai funghi, a savoury selection
of maitake, shimeji and shiitake mushrooms served on house-
made sourdough focaccia that was lightly charred in butter and
then dipped in extra virgin olive oil. That alchemy of heat and fat
creates its own lip-smacking flavour profile, subtly finished with
crème fraîche and a fresh rasp of Grana Padano. Our next veggie
favourite — a salad combining silky endive and crunchy fennel —
received a quick kiss from the grill before landing on our plates
(charring is a glorious theme at Nero). The rapid-fire technique
lends an almost meaty dynamic to the salad, which is boosted by
an anchovy-based vinaigrette.
There’s a sense of ease throughout the meal at Nero; guests
feel cared for by staff who know their wine and food and how
to pace the meal so that the family-style, shared offerings don’t
overwhelm the table and palate.
While inspired by cherished Italian recipes, Nero creates
more than a mere copy. Our table’s toothsome Rigatoni all’
Amatriciana, a Roman classic starring guanciale, enjoys a
tweak by chef Sawhney, who pumps up the umami in the dish’s
tomato sauce with roasted miso that also adds a touch of
sweetness. Even the soft, finely textured Polpette al Pomodoro
are outside the ordinary; the meatballs get their pretty pink
interior from a grind that includes mortadella.
The Italian penchant for chocolate is on full display over
dessert; do not miss the budino for afters. The stovetop custard
of Bernard Callebaut chocolate and freshly ground espresso is
topped with a fat dollop of tea-smoked almond and mascarpone
Chantilly cream. Grazie mille. ED.
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