When the pandemic began in March 2020, live performances and, in turn, Emily Whistance-Smith’s drag persona Kruella De Kill, went on hiatus. Looking for another creative outlet, Whistance-Smith bought a sewing machine and — using upcycled fabric with fun prints — started sewing cloth masks, returning to a childhood hobby her mother had taught her. “It really sparked my love for fashion again, and for the power that comes with what we wear.”
A few months later, Whistance-Smith — who identifies as a queer woman — was inspired to start designing and sewing size-inclusive, gender-expansive clothing for an underserved market under the brand De Kill Designs. She noticed that “gender neutral” clothing from large retailers usually referred to clothing with neutral colour palettes and traditionally masculine fits, and wanted to make clothing that offered more variety for gender expression. “There are so many demographics desperate for options and representation in fashion,” Whistance-Smith says. “I’m very involved in the queer community and it’s nice designing for friends who are trans or non-binary that really struggle to find things that suit their personalities. With ‘gender neutral’ clothing, I think retailers are saying, ‘If that’s how you identify then you’re not allowed to be loud, and shouldn’t be seen.’ In the queer community there are many different expressions of gender, identity and individuality. Gender neutral clothing means hearts and rainbows and pinks and purples.”
De Kill Designs features fabrics that would likely otherwise end up in landfills or be passed over by the resale community, such as thrifted bedsheets with bold prints and nostalgic characters, or clothing with small rips or stains — for instance, she’s made a crop top from bedsheets with a The Lion King print, and overalls with Looney Tunes accents. The child-like nature of her clothing is deliberate, and not just because of the recent ’90s revival. “Seeing something that you loved as a kid can spark so much joy. Why not wear something that brings joy into the world and frees you?”
While De Kill Designs’ bold pieces won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, Whistance-Smith has no plans to start designing more mainstream looks. “I often hear people say ‘That’s a lot for me,’ and I always chuckle and tell them, ‘That’s OK, I wasn’t thinking about you. I was thinking about people living their best, loud lives.’ I don’t need to water my brand down — I think it’s important to have a company that isn’t willing to bend to a wider consumer market just because that’s more profitable. Stepping into a movement of self-empowerment and self- expression is most important to me. My goal is to make things that make people smile.”
This article appears in the December 2022 issue of Edify
