The Rago family is synonymous with the Sorrentino’s restaurant chain and their offshoots, Buco and Caffè Sorrentino. Now, thanks to Antonio Rago’s memorable trip to Mexico, it has added ARGOS Bar | Bistro to its portfolio.
Rago was on holiday when he visited a restaurant he said was unlike anything he’d experienced in Edmonton, and he wanted to bring that experience to his hometown. Food inspired by the northern Mediterranean, cuisine that screams “summer” and in a spot that makes you feel like you’re in a resort. My wife and I were invited to the friends and family preview for ARGOS, located across the parking lot from Buco’s St. Albert location.
In what used to be a Delux Burger Bar, you find an airy space with large lighting fixtures that look like overturned baskets suspended from the ceiling. There’s a tapas station off to the right side, which will soon be surrounded by seats. And there’s a spacious patio off to the left.
I start with a cocktail, a bright green Nymph, which is heavy on pineapple, with lemon, lime, St. Germaine and Green Tree Absinthe. It’s one of those fruity concoctions where you can’t detect the two ounces of liquor — at all. Drink at your own peril.
Then come the appetizers; spinach empanadas are served with a spicy dipping sauce (good thing I have the cocktail) and then there’s smoked salmon served with dill, beets and sour cream. My wife and I question the Mediterranean nature of this dish, but, on a warm summer night, it’s cool, refreshing and delicious.
Then come the rock stars — the mains. The Chicken Chorizo Pae-Sotto is served on a wide pan that serves two to four. The risotto is soft, served with chicken and chorizo, with a hearty helping of Manchego cheese. It’s spoon-licking good (and, yes, it’s served with a large serving spoon). We also shared the Seafood Bouillabaisse, with lobster, scallops, shrimp and mussels in a rich red sauce that screams to be scooped up with warm bread.
This is a place that will be a chameleon. It’s great for summertime snacking and drinking, but also be a date-night spot for an elegant meal. We got a sampling of the menu. And, now that the restaurant is open to the public, we’ll see if the Rago family has another hit on their hands.
ARGOS Bar | Bistro
St. Albert | #101, 150 Bellerose Dr. | 780.569.1199 | argosbarbistro.com
