Located in the historic Molson building anchoring the Brewery District, the new Italian eatery Nero buffs up the brick and bones of the 1913 structure with a $3-million restoration featuring vintage touches. A glittering array of chandeliers, waxy candelabra and brocade banquettes in the 100-seat restaurant creates an atmosphere that’s both elegant and comfortable. Custom-designed wallpaper shines with a baroque sensibility and gilt-framed prints over high-top tables evoke Rome.
That old-world sense of place is what Dave Manna had in mind when he created Nero along with his longtime business partner, Joe Viana. Inspired by numerous trips to Italy, Manna wanted to bring a taste of that country back to Edmonton, where he was raised by Italian immigrants to appreciate good food. It’s not the first time the duo has imported a Mediterranean experience; Rosso Pizzeria has been wood-firing Neapolitan pies since 2013, and in 2019, Bianco introduced its own scratch-made pasta to the city. Now, with Nero, the food tourists bring fellow gastronomes along on another culinary journey, one that combines continental charm with a comforting piece of Edmonton’s own history that continues to evolve.
While the Nero menu is extensive, reflecting dishes from the central region, it retains a sacred space for the pasta and pizza that have secured the owners’ reputation for quality and value (in case you were worried). But executive chef Kunal Sawney (who also runs the kitchen at Bianco and is part owner of Nero) takes a lighter approach elsewhere on the Nero menu. A more-than-perfunctory nod to meatless dishes balances a robust carne selection (with a stand-out 16-ounce Kurobuta pork chop) and a pleasing pastry and bread program. Most items on the antipasto and contorni menu are veggie-forward.
We started with a classic crostini ai funghi, a savoury selection of maitake, shimeji and shiitake mushrooms served on house-made sourdough focaccia that was lightly charred in butter and then dipped in extra virgin olive oil. That alchemy of heat and fat creates its own lip-smacking flavour profile, subtly finished with crème fraîche and a fresh rasp of Grana Padano. Our next veggie favourite — a salad combining silky endive and crunchy fennel — received a quick kiss from the grill before landing on our plates (charring is a glorious theme at Nero). The rapid-fire technique lends an almost meaty dynamic to the salad, which is boosted by an anchovy-based vinaigrette.
There’s a sense of ease throughout the meal at Nero; guests feel cared for by staff who know their wine and food and how to pace the meal so that the family-style, shared offerings don’t overwhelm the table and palate.
While inspired by cherished Italian recipes, Nero creates more than a mere copy. Our table’s toothsome Rigatoni all’ Amatriciana, a Roman classic starring guanciale, enjoys a tweak by chef Sawhney, who pumps up the umami in the dish’s tomato sauce with roasted miso that also adds a touch of sweetness. Even the soft, finely textured Polpette al Pomodoro are outside the ordinary; the meatballs get their pretty pink interior from a grind that includes mortadella.
The Italian penchant for chocolate is on full display over dessert; do not miss the budino for afters. The stovetop custard of Bernard Callebaut chocolate and freshly ground espresso is topped with a fat dollop of tea-smoked almond and mascarpone Chantilly cream. Grazie mille.
This article appears in the September 2025 issue of Edify
