When Ryan Arcand, owner of Iconoclast Coffee, decided to open a restaurant next door in the east building of the Oliver Exchange, he turned to Chef Bryan Cruz — formerly of The Marc — with a bold idea: a bistro that fuses French technique with Middle Eastern inspiration. Lovesong Bistro is the result.
A handwritten chalkboard near the kitchen window sets the tone for a confident, unfussy bistro. Aside from the restaurant’s name glowing in red neon, the design is understated — wood panelling, glass block windows and exposed ductwork give the room a modest, modern charm. The main dining area seats about 30, with additional space in the basement and on the rooftop, where the kitchen grows its own microgreens. Clean, ingredient-driven cooking is central to the menu.
From the “petites” section, the Levantine chicken arrives on a fermented buckwheat crepe, layered with Turkish ezme sauce, North African chermoula-marinated chicken, tahini and greens. Folded like a taco and easy to eat by hand, it’s fresh, light and subtly tangy — a tidy introduction to the bistro’s cross-cultural approach.
On the sharing menu, the Hasselback beet salad pairs roasted red and gold beets with chèvre camarade, toasted walnuts and dijon vinaigrette. The beets are firm but tender, with bright, earthy flavours balanced by the richness of the cheese and the light crunch of walnuts.
But the standout dish — and one that speaks to the restaurant’s deeper ambitions — is the hummus and braised beef. Though warm hummus might surprise some diners, this dish, common in refined restaurants in Syria and Palestine, is rarely found in Edmonton. Here, it’s given the bistro treatment without losing its heart. The smoky, paprika-rubbed brisket is braised with cinnamon, cumin and cardamom, then served over warm hummus with microgreens and toasted pine nuts.
Lovesong offers a refreshing, low-key take on French and Levantine cuisine — a welcome addition in a city still short on elevated Middle Eastern fare.
Lovesong
Wîhkwêntôwin | 12015 102 Ave NW, Edmonton | lovesong.farm
