Something about Atrium by Sabor feels purposeful and deliberate, like you’ve arrived at the very place you’ve been anticipating without even knowing what it is you’re looking for. The latest in Christian Mena and Lino Oliveira’s ever-expanding stable (now including eight Bodega locations across Alberta and the upcoming Roca inside the Union Bank building) manages to set the right mood for just about everything: afterwork nibbles, date nights, business lunches — perhaps with a tidy tech deal on the side — and, coming soon, grab-and-go breakfasts at a daytime coffee bar. (That being said, evenings are often booked for weddings and other private events, so definitely check ahead.)
The view from Atrium’s interior, defined by a soaring ceiling and enclosed by brick on three sides, is decidedly urban with windows opening to the warehouse district. Come nighttime, the view turns inward. Small lanterns warm the intimate, granite- topped tables while sparkling moons of light shine from on high. The long, lean Art Deco bar is simple yet elegant like the backdrop in a Bond scene, while a shiny black grand piano in the middle of Atrium is kept in top tune with regular performances by singers (occasionally Mena himself). Of course, luxurious aesthetics are to be expected of anything with Sabor’s name behind it. What separates the 60-seat Atrium from its sisterhood of Mediterranean eateries is the menu.
For one, the dining menu is somewhat Continental, with French and Italian inflections, but it’s also smaller and more refined: Chef Lino is stoking his inner fire with more sophisticated offerings after 30 years in restaurants, the last half spent forging a strong connection with Edmonton diners through ebullient, tapas-style dining. There is a standout seafood raw bar (from oysters to ahi tuna tartare) and a careful selection of reimagined plates (chef is working with a dairy farmer to develop a local burrata) that will change more often.
Our group of four shared small bites to kick things off, including a raw-bar offering of lightly cured and smoked scallop ceviche spiked with jalapeño crema and pickled shallots. The ceviche was tender and delicate, priming the palate for more robust selections on the starter menu. A creamy burrata toast, topped with roasted tomatoes from Gull Valley Greenhouses, was distinguished by its Portuguese baguette, which is custom made by Popular Bakery, and noteworthy for a hint of sour.
Iberian black pork meatballs, braised in a soft, thick tomato sauce, arrived plump with herbs and Manchego cheese. Baby artichokes grazed with chili oil were grilled to a satisfyingly smoky finish.
I was most impressed by two mains. The first saw dark and tender braised beef cheeks (pleasing to the traditionalists among us) placed atop layers of potato puree, mushrooms and spinach surrounded by a red wine jus. (Though take note that beef cut does rotate.) Next up was a bone-out, chorizo-stuffed half chicken that rested in a Spanish-style ratatouille spiced with piri piri. One, I won’t say who, considered licking the plate.
I was happily in the company of those who appreciate dessert (a sadly dwindling cohort) and we shared the menu’s sweets, starting with a classic Basque cheesecake, which has a caramelized and crispy top studded with port-soaked sour cherries. Our second, joyful ending was a crème Catalana doughnut that could pair just as well with an 11 a.m. espresso as a late-night red. Indeed, Atrium by Sabor greets downtown with equanimity in the early hours and late at night — an ideal urban, and urbane, Edmonton experience.
Atrium by Sabor
Downtown | 10310 102 Ave NW, Edmonton | sabor.ca
