Nineteen
Chef Andrew Fung’s Nineteen is tucked away in a cluster of shops in Terwillegar, blending in with the all-black exteriors of the neighbouring stores. The interior, however, is a pleasant departure, with partitions and wood accents creating a warm and intimate atmosphere.
The service is stellar – a crucial element for a great date night. The servers at Nineteen seem to have sixth senses, appearing exactly when you need them and otherwise leaving you to enjoy your meal in privacy.
Start with the double-smoked bacon-wrapped scallops – the dish has a wonderful combination of flavours and textures, from the crispy risotto croquettes to the salty and sweet tomato-bacon marmalade. The appetizer comes with two perfectly seared – yet tender and creamy – scallops, making it ideal for sharing. And, of course, you must finish your meal by lingering over something sweet. The frozen lemon souffle, recommended by the server, comes with a generous dollop of lemon curd that flawlessly complements the souffle and offers nuance to the tart citrus flavour. –A.S.
5940 Mullen Way, 780-395-1119, dinenineteen.com
Sabor
The food arrives at the table as a musician tinkles a keyboard in the corner. My wife and I discuss why the heck we both recognize that it’s a Billy Joel song, given that neither of us own a Billy Joel album. The room is warm, thanks to the wood-slatted ceiling and thick wood beams that link the room to its industrial past.
Sabor’s seafood dishes are approved by the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program and they’re the highlights of the menu. We start with heavily smoked seared tuna, served over a bright cucumber salsa. The salsa is good enough to eat with a spoon, as hints of salt, vinegar and sweet come through and really balance out the smoke of the fish.
For entres, I go with the sturgeon; wrapped in bacon, this monster-like fish’s meat is dense, meaty and satisfying. It’s a perfect fish dish for people who think fish tastes too fishy (sorry for the Dr. Seuss sentence). My wife opts for the paella, and says the shellfish is perfectly cooked; she lets me have a mussel or two, and she’s spot on. But the buttery scallops are the highlight.
We finish with a Portuguese milk custard, sprinkled with cinnamon. The candied shell is not too thick or overpowering; it’s a wonderful end to a wonderful night. But why do I have Billy Joel songs in my head? –Steven Sandor