Japanese food gets unfairly stereotyped in North America as being all sushi, sushi, sushi — to the uninitiated Westerner, that might seem like all there is. But Dorinku Tokyo flips that script, taking its marching orders from the Tachinomi bars in Japan — simple, almost dive-y places to grab a quick beer and a snack after work. But food wise, Dorinku Tokyo is anything but a stopover on the way home. It’s a heavy hitter when it comes to eats. It does have sushi (try the pressed TNT), but it’s hardly front and centre. Instead, this resto focuses on the less-celebrated (this side of the Pacific) dishes. Takoyaki, Yakiniku (barbecue beef on hot lava stone) and, of course, killer ramen. If those appetizing offerings aren’t enough to make you start salivating, trust when I say that eating here isn’t just tasty, it’s cool. The atmosphere is punk and cozy in the best sort of way. — Jesse Cole
Dorinku Tokyo
10205 82 Ave NW | (780) 988-9760 | tokyo.dorinku.ca
The sister to Dorinku Tokyo, the Osaka rendition caters to the chichi Jasper Avenue crowd. Dorinku Osaka is more upscale in its vibes than its Whyte Avenue counterpart, with a little more fusion in its menu offerings (try the cream truffle udon for a carbonara take on the Japanese classic), but it really shines as a spot to break up the sports bars and bistros on the downtown strip. You’ll be hard pressed to find as quality pressed sushi as Osaka’s. And with seared wild sockeye, shiso leaf, kaiware and creamy soy bibimbap sauce, I don’t think I’ll ever be able to settle for regular salmon maki again. — Jesse Cole
Dorinku Osaka
Downtown | 10328 Jasper Ave NW, Edmonton | 780.761.9990 | osaka.dorinku.ca
Where the other restaurants in this category are full of colour — and we love them for it — Izakaya Tomo has a more subdued, traditional decor — and we love it, too. It gives the vibe of an old-world restaurant with a sign saying “leave weapons at the door,” but it’s really just a nice south-side Japanese spot.
Always get the Beef Tataki and Spicy Tuna to start. The sushi and sashimi are as good as you’ll find in Edmonton, we have a soft spot for Botan Ebi (Spot Prawn) and the udon is great stir-fried or as soup. Bring your appetite — but leave your sword outside. — Cory Schachtel
Izakaya Tomo
Strathcona Industrial Park | 3739 99 St NW, Edmonton | 780.440.9152 | izakayatomo.net
This article appears in the Mar/Apr 2024 issue of Edify
