Open a restaurant in a time when about the worst thing you can do is open a restaurant? Check. When so many restaurants are closing for lunch and reducing their hours, why not offer morning coffee, a lunch menu, dinner service and a weekend brunch? Check, check and check. Happy and Olive is a bright spot, the kind of place to sit down for coffee with a friend, then come back for a date-night dinner. But, really, this is a rebel story — because restaurant veterans Frank and Andrea Olson, and Ann and Dave Jackson’s vision is to go against all the negative trends we’re seeing in the restaurant business.
Brunch is stellar, and the lunch and dinner menus offer a tour of the world, from a latke menu to Pepper Crusted Black Cod to Moroccan Lamb Rack Chops served with a feta, ricotta and carrot tart.
We know the Olsons from the Red Ox Inn and Canteen, and the Jacksons owned the Wired Cup coffee shop in Strathearn. They’ve taken the best of both the cafe and the casual- fine-dining worlds, and transformed it into a community hub. Not bad for a place that isn’t even a year old, yet. — Steven Sandor
Happy & Olive
Crestwood | 9640 142 St NW, Edmonton | 825.401.4958 | happyandolive.ca
Nitpickers will point out that Ralphs Fried Chicken once existed as part of a convenience store in Strathearn, and that it isn’t technically “new,” because it had a cult following for years. But, when the LRT — and redevelopment — led to the end of the strip mall that bodega called home, many fans feared it would be the end of Ralphs. Then, in 2023, it reopened — not as something to be sold alongside cigarettes, gum and chocolate bars, but in its own dedicated space. That’s why, for us, it qualifies as new (and, heck, Edify sets the rules, anyway).
But be warned: Ralphs’ fans have multiplied — expect lineups for the famous fried chicken and wedges. If you’re hoping for a salad, try the grocery store next door, because this spot is dedicated to chicken and potatoes. Once a cult classic on the south side, Ralphs is now a full-on rock star in the north. — Steven Sandor
Ralph’s Fried Chicken
Lorelei | 10807 Castle Downs Rd | 877.807.1148 | Ralph’s on Facebook
Little Wolf replaced Three Boars last fall, but the small wood space still stands a few blocks north of Whyte Avenue, keeping the fairytale magic alive in one of the coolest and coziest places in town.
If you’re a young person, you already know Little Wolf as a packed, end-of-the-night hotspot that serves great food. If you’re a 40-something magazine writer, you know it as a quaint and quiet stop on your way home after work at a reasonable hour. But no matter what time works for you, you’ll find quality food on a unique menu that “changes every few weeks.”
On this visit, I try the crispy cod swimming in the naturally saltiest, and possibly most preserved (gull valley tomato) brine I’ve ever had — and that’s not a complaint. I pair it with some smoked olives and a side of focaccia to soak up the salty concoction, making a meal that the young person tending bar says is a “killer order,” and I choose to believe he isn’t just looking for a bigger tip. — Cory Schachtel
Little Wolf
Garneau | 8424 109 St NW, Edmonton | littlewolfrestaurant.com
In Vietnamese, the phrase “Mãi Mãi” means forever, or everlasting. That’s a fitting name for the newly minted Mãi Mãi Viet Street Kitchen because, after tasting items from its menu, I’m certain it’s not going anywhere soon.
Located in a modest strip mall in the city’s southwest, Mãi Mãi curates an adorable dining room filled with retro pop art decor and photographed scenes from Vietnam’s urban metropolises like Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. The vibe is under-stated but cool.
But what makes me certain this place has a bright future is exactly what’s required of any restaurant: good food. Specializing in street eats (you won’t find any pho here), Mãi Mãi whips up a remarkably diverse and appetizing selection, ranging from sweetened soy rice cakes and slaw to hearty bowls of vermicelli and pork belly to our personal favourite — Bánh Mì. Seriously, I haven’t had Bánh Mì this good since the days I used to cop homemade sandwiches from my friend’s grandmother. — Jesse Cole
Mãi Mãi Viet Street Kitchen
Terwillegar Towne | 14221 23 Ave NW, Edmonton | 587-416-4354
The OSAKA and TOKYO neon signs in the window welcome you as you walk into this space, and Tansen Izakaya offers an inventive menu that is awesome for a family or group to share. Start with a salmon collar from the stone-fire grill, which bursts with salty goodness and was one of my favourite things to eat in 2023. The ramen is hearty, and the pressed osisushi can’t be missed. The tuna, served with black tobiko and a sweet mayo on a rectangle of rice, is a delightful bite. Order lots of sharing plates, put down the phone and enjoy some great times with friends. — Steven Sandor
Tansen Izakaya
Garneau | 11044 82 Ave NW, Edmonton | 780.249.8889
This article appears in the Mar/Apr 2024 issue of Edify
