It’s the first -20 Celsius Tuesday of the year. My dad is in Mexico, my partner’s family is about to be, and I just got off the phone with another snowbird who’s kicking it in Cabo right now.
I’m fed up with the cold and need some sunshine of the edible variety — so I walk down to Calle Mexico.
Don’t forget, the sun can burn, and some of the sauces at the Choose Your Own Adventure sauce station pack a lot of heat. While any sauce/taco or torta combination is sublime, the No. 6 Lengua Beef Tongue taco paired with the “medium” roasted pepper hot sauce is my absolute favourite. The firm meat is perfectly flavoured, and the smoky, peppery sauce gives the right amount of heat to make me sweat a little. It’s a great vacation for the middle of the day. —Liam Newbigging
Calle Mexico
Queen Alexandra | 7704 104 St NW, Edmonton | 825.512.5932
Queen Mary Park | 11127 107 Ave NW, Edmonton | 780.705.0901
callemexico.ca
La Patrona started as the colourful Casa 12 Doce food truck, owned by Chef Carlos O’Farrill and his business partner, Janette Norwood. In 2017, they opened La Patrona, bringing La Calavera, Day-of-the-Dead decor to Sherwood Park’s Broadmoor Business Centre.
There’s more colour on the plates than on the walls. The nachos come cold, which is surprising until you realize that even baked nachos are one of the least heat-retaining dishes anyway (making them the popcorn of Mexican food). The main dish comes from the day’s special menu, a Pastor Torta (sandwich) with chicken, tomato, avocado and a fried egg. Despite the creamy dressing, the sandwich doesn’t get soggy. Edmonton’s Mexican restaurant scene is robust — La Patrona shows it’s strong in Sherwood Park, as well. — Cory Schachtel
La Patrona
2 Athabascan Ave #8, Sherwood Park | 780.570.1200 | lapatrona.rocks
Smokin’ Barrels has all the trappings of an authentic cocina: lively music, noisy conversation, a seriously familial ambience and really good food. When I go, the place is packed, a feat made all the more impressive given it’s frigid outside. The decor is evocative of the temperate homelands that inspire so much of the cuisine — Colombian and Mexican — and, having recently spent two-and-a-half months backpacking across Colombia, Smokin’ Barrels ain’t serving up Taco Bell. This is the real deal, from Enchiladas Verdes with black beans and fresh queso to the saucy consomme-infused Taquiza Don Birria. — Jesse Cole
Smokin’ Barrels Cocina Latina
Mistatim Industrial | 13119 156 St NW, Edmonton | 587.817.0339 | tacoscocinalatina.com
This article appears in the Mar/Apr 2024 issue of Edify
