Sara Proudlock pours steaming Bai Hao tea into a mug in her basement workshop, from which she runs her tea blending and selling business, The Tea Girl. This particular cuppa gets its sweet scent and flavour courtesy of small insects called leafhoppers, which pierce the leaves while the plant is growing to consume the sap. The plant secretes defensive compounds in response, which attract the bugs’ predators and create the characteristic flavour of the beverage. The complex lifecycle makes for a satisfying brew. “Right now, this is my favourite tea,” says Proudlock. “Well, I have so many favourite teas.” She retails her teas and blends online, and for local coffee shops.
Over at Acquired Taste Teas, a fixture on 124th Street, owner Tasha Weenk maintains tidy shelves of large decorative tea canisters. After the warm, spicy smell, variety is the first thing you notice at Acquired Taste. Some customers like to try new teas from Weenk’s large offering, she says. And the basics, like Earl Grey or relaxing herbal blends are consistent best sellers. Unlike coffee’s “third wave,” where customers want to explore beans’ terroir and taste profile, Edmonton’s tea drinkers are still a little more fixed in their tea-drinking habits.
According to Statistics Canada, Canadians drink much less tea than coffee, mostly drinking bagged, rather than looseleaf tea. In 2023, Canada imported more than 40 tonnes of tea, about one-tenth the volume of coffee imported in the same year. On average, that amounts to enough tea in Canada for every person to drink about one cup a day.
Tea’s lower consumption rates in Canada can make it hard to run a looseleaf tea shop. “We’ve been waiting for the tea bubble forever,” jokes Proudlock. “I think everyone thought that tea would explode, like coffee did here.” Weenk agrees. Tea sees a lot of trends: last year, gym-goers loved yerba mate. “A few years ago, it was oolong for weight loss,” she adds. Tea trends spike consumer interest but may not produce long-lasting customers and steady sales. But right now, there’s a new tea trend that both businesses are monitoring carefully to see if it’s a bubble or here for good.