Sometimes, pork is referred to as “the other white meat.” So, in that vein, perhaps we ought to start referring to lamb as “the other red meat.” Long hidden in the shadow of beef in Canadian diets, lamb has come into its own on the plates of Edmonton restaurants.
As pretty as a perfectly cooked rack of lamb looks, though, it’s not just for expensive celebration dinners anymore. Lamb can now be found in meatballs and stews at restaurants across the city that encompass many different cultural cuisines, from Spanish and Turkish to Ethiopian and Iranian. Here’s a look at just a few of the lamb options available at local eateries, some of which may be good enough to make you forget about a sirloin steak for a while.
Pomegranate Braised Lamb Shank
at Workshop Eatery
With pomegranate mentioned in the very name of this dish at Workshop Eatery, you might assume that the flavour of the fruit would overpower the lamb itself – but it doesn’t. You’re served a lamb shank so tender that it quite literally falls apart with the merest nudge of your fork and knife, and there’s simply a hint of sweetness from the pomegranate braise that complements the rich meat.
The tenderness of the lamb calls for a side with a bit more texture, and the risotto more than delivers. Instead of using rice, the risotto is crafted from Gold Forest Grains farro, a nutty grain from the wheat family that can be cooked in liquid (like rice), but maintains a bit of a bite. Enhanced by the mushrooms’ earthiness, the resulting side is a great accompaniment to the lamb.
Finally, there are the pickled candy-striped beets. With only two paper-thin circles on the plate, they could easily be considered a mere garnish. However, they add a burst of colour to the plate and perfectly balance the other components. –Adrianna Szenthe
2003 91 St. S.W., 780-705-2205,theworkshopeatery.com
Lamb Meatballs
at Tzin Wine and Tapas
The last time my wife and I went to Tzin, the cozy wine bar on 104th Street, the menu featured lamb merguez meatballs in a tomato-harissa sauce. She wasn’t a big fan; the North African spices were a bit too much for her. This time, though, the chefs at Tzin had revamped their lamb meatball recipe, and we left much more satisfied.