We all remember Red Robin. While I’m conditioned to disdain these corporate conglomerates of the culinary world, I cannot help but recall the late burger joint with warm fondness, like a close friend who moved away. But when I was in Victoria over Christmas, I got to see that friend after many years apart. Biting into the Whiskey River BBQ burger, I was reminded of a time in my life when a good burger and a cold beer would be the highlight of my week. Things are a lot livelier for me now, but man, I really missed that burger.
And then, back in Edmonton, while performing my ritual late-night doomscroll, I unearthed a fabled promise: a world where the beers are cold, the fries are warm, and the burgers are bold. This is a new Edmonton burger joint that took over the old Red Robin’s location and claimed it was exactly the same as my old friend. It was decided: I had to see it for myself.
It’s called The Varsity, and, when I walked in, I noticed immediately that my eyes weren’t squinting from the assault of kitsch cartoonish decor that Red Robin was known for. This place was more mature, contemporary and Zen even, giving all the stylings of a modern sports bar.
Our server was a bit nervous, as if he knew whose shoes he was filling. But he did a great job. I moved away from the “forever” fries and chose a Caesar salad as my side, joking that I was “watching my carbs” and requested very little dressing. He picked up on my half-serious health-savviness and asked if I still wanted croutons, which was smart but hilarious to me because I paired a Kentucky Bourbon BBQ Burger and an ice-cold pint with my healthy little salad.
It’s probably impossible to perfectly replicate the same flavour profile, texture, and feel of the original Red Robin’s Whiskey River BBQ burger. Still, the burger The Varsity produced was a great performance in its own right. The sweetness of the barbecue sauce balanced the palate of salty onion straws, and the freshness of the veggies tied the whole number together. One of the best burgers I’ve had from the barbecue tradition in a while and an immense improvement over what I could get at Carl’s Jr.
It’s not exactly like Red Robin, but considering the quality, the value, and the fact that this place is independently owned and operated, I can attest that The Varsity is in a league of its own.
The Varsity
Rideau Park | 4211 106 St NW, Edmonton| 825-480-6444 | varsityburgers.ca
