At Your Service
Around 1:45 a.m. on a Monday night, an hour or so before Vliegenthart usually enters her kitchen, Chuck Elves is busy cashing out at Three Boars Eatery. He wants to close up earlier than usual, and had informed the last few lingering customers that it was last call at least 15 minutes ago. I ask for another drink – one of my favourites, a boulevardier. He looks down at his watch. He has been working late nights all weekend and cannot wait for his Tuesday off, which could have started already.
But this is the service industry – he is here to serve. He grabs a glass and, with tuned muscle memory, stirs the concoction of eyeballed-but-accurate rations of bourbon, sweet vermouth and Campari. In less than a minute, a passing smile crosses his face as he sees me enjoy my first sip. His job is done.
As the bar empties, Elves – who has since left Three Boars, and is now working with Alberta Hotel Bar + Kitchen and Situation Brewing – begins turning stools over, wiping down counters and running glasses through the washer. Even with Led Zeppelin blasting on the speakers, the air seems vacant. The typically bustling 109th Street is like a deserted movie set.
Brandi Dawson is an insider who understands the food industry in Edmonton. She has locked up many restaurants after service, throughout her career. As a server for 27 years, she jokes that she can literally tell off pesky young servers by saying: “I’ve been doing this longer than you’ve been alive!”
Her first gig, when she was 13, was at Pizza Hut. After high school, she made a deliberate decision to not go to university and continue on her path of serving. At 40, she is now certified by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust and has positioned herself professionally in a niche, where only a handful of people in the city can claim such experience and expertise. She works shifts at places like Bibo, The Marc, RGE RD and Woodwork.
The average person may not realize that the server who brings them food at a fine dining restaurant is a professional.
“This business picks people. You don’t pick it,” says Dawson. The only ones who filter through various levels of dining, all the way to the top, are those who understand the industry to its cold starkness, really love food and find energy to serve.
“There’s always that one person: ‘Oh yeah, I used to work at Earls’ – I’m sure when you were in university. But if you think we’re at the same level because you worked at Earls? No. I do this professionally.”