It’s not just the Citadel’s programming that’s been overhauled this season. The space formerly filled by a sushi bar is now occupied by co-owner Norman Campbell’s third venture, Normand’s Bistro.
Friendly and formal, it’s cut from the same classic French cloth as Normand’s Fine Regional Cuisine on Jasper and Glenora Bistro on 124th Street. And, like the servers tucked-in white shirts, the entrees are similarly buttoned down. If available, the roasted lamb shank is terrific. The meat falls right off the bone and into the whisky and roasted red pepper sauce.
Where it diverges from its sister spots, however, is the fixed starters list channelling some of the artistry happening upstairs in the Shoctor Theatre. To get an idea: There’s lamb in the style of sliders, though without a bun – just three kafta-like patties, dripping with brown sugar sauce, topped with onion and pear compote and tastefully paired with frisee for greens.
The best time for Normand’s Bistro, however, is breakfast, which shouldn’t come as a surprise if you’ve tried the options at Glenora Bistro. “Normand’s Cristo” might not roll off the tongue, but it sure seizes it with a medley of sweet red wine-poached pear, salty double-smoked bacon and bitter baked brie. Or, you may want to start your day with a beef short rib Bennie under a blanket of sweet and lightly cinnamoned Hollandaise. Pair it with a glass of California orange juice squeezed right before your eyes and call it a great morning. (10177 99 St., 780-425-1008)