If there’s one thing I’ve learned in over a decade as the editor of this publication, it’s that nothing attracts readers quite like over-the-top burgers. So, when I spot a ridiculous burger on a local restaurant’s menu, I rejoice.
So, this week, I tucked into the Vons Burger, named for, you guessed it. Vons Steak House & Raw Bar, which in 2023 made the move from Old Strathcona to downtown. After making the move to the core, it made sense to go hard on a lunch menu, because, well, there are still some of us out there who go to the office for parts of the week, at least.
Vons has built its reputation on shucking oysters and preparing some big-time steaks, but, for lunch, you may as well get a burger, right? But this isn’t a burger with some onions and relish thrown on top. The Vons Burger clocks in at $27 on the lunch feature menu, and $35 on the dinner menu. A Big Mac, it is not.
The patty is made with wagyu beef, and there are “artisan” greens, onion jam and aged cheddar on top. It’s served in a delicate brioche bun. But, wait, I left out the best part. And that’s the “billionaire” bacon. As the server brings the burger to the table, I can’t help but notice the links that stick out of the bun. Like, there’s a lot of bacon in there. For bacon to be elevated to “billionaire” status, it needs to be thick cut, and cooked with brown sugar and pepper flakes. The bacon is sweet, and, together with the onion jam, makes for a rich, rich complement to the beef. Like, over-the-top. The brioche bun cracks under the strain of everything inside, and I worry I am going to have to make the very embarrassing decision to use a fork and knife on this thing. Luckily, it holds up. Really, just one link of bacon cut this thick would be enough… but there’s so much in there, you could argue that this is a bacon sandwich with a burger patty as the condiment. In terms of bacon cheeseburgers that I’ve consumed in my life, this one goes right up near the top of the list when it comes to sheer ridiculousness.
This decadent burger is served with parmesan fries and truffle aioli on the side. If you head to Vons and have this burger for lunch, plan for an afternoon nap. You’ll be the one snoring through the boss’s afternoon presentation. No one wanted to hear your sales report, anyway.
Vons Steak House & Raw Bar
Downtown | 10065 Jasper Ave, Edmonton | 780.439.0041 | vonssteakhouse.com
