Juana Inés may be one of the most visually distinctive new restaurants in Edmonton. Its walls are washed in pastel pink and green, with floral arrangements climbing toward high ceilings and gilded skulls perched on tables. The focal point is a pop-surrealist portrait of Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz — the 17th-century Mexican philosopher and nun after whom the restaurant is named — rendered with halo and feminist iconography. It’s a bold tribute to the namesake, alongside quieter nods to Frida Kahlo, a tribute to the owners’ previous venture — Frida Urban Taqueria, a popular spot that became an unfortunate casualty of the prolonged and disruptive 124th Street construction. Juana Inés, which opened this spring in Manchester Square, keeps the spirit of Frida alive in a quieter location with more space and easier parking, while still staying close to its original neighbourhood.
While not strictly regional, its menu is shaped by the family’s roots in Querétaro, a central Mexican state better known for colonial architecture than culinary distinction. (In fact, many Mexicans regard it as gastronomically inferior — what English food is to European cuisine.) Still, the pride in place is palpable, with home-style dishes and street food staples served without fuss. Expect nopales, mole enchiladas, and tacos filled with slow-stewed meats, all presented with confidence in their tradition.
I started with a suadero taco — tender shredded brisket slow-cooked in beef tallow. The meat was juicy, mild and surprisingly not greasy despite the rendered fat. Laid across a corn tortilla topped with diced onion and cilantro, it was comforting and accessible, a palatable option for those wary of “spicy” Mexican food.
On the other end of the spectrum was the tinga taco: roasted chicken simmered in a chipotle-tomato sauce, finished with a crumbled mix of sour cream and queso. This one delivered heat and tang, balanced by a satisfying creaminess. On a warm day, both paired well with an iced horchata latte — spiced rice milk, coffee and cinnamon over ice — refreshing but not overly sweet.
Like the food, the space feels expressive yet casual. I was happy to see Juana Ines’s dining room packed — at one point, staff showered a patron with exuberant Mexican birthday songs. Before long, the atmosphere will be even busier — a speakeasy-style bar is in the works upstairs, promising late-night drinks and, I was told, perhaps even a pulley system to deliver snacks from below. Now that’s fun.
Juana Inés
Queen Mary Park | 12042 107 Ave NW, Edmonton | @ines.restaurant
