It’s happened to all of us — we see something that we’re never tried before, and then the flavour is nothing like what our eyes were telling us to expect. Our eyes program us to anticipate a certain flavour profile. Oh, it’s deep red — it must be sweet and strawberry-like. Oh, it’s bright orange-red? It must be spicy. It’s green? Can’t possibly be sweet.
So, I walked into An Vat, a new Vietnamese bakery in the long strip mall just north of the intersection of 34th Street and Gateway Boulevard. And, even though the signage reads that the house specialty is salted-egg sponge cake, my eyes tell me another thing when the cake is delivered into my hands. I see the bright oranges and yellows and my brain says “this is going to be sweet and fruity.” And though I know the golden peaks atop the cake are bits of shredded egg yolk, my eyes are still telling me that maybe it’s salty in a way that salted caramel is salty. As in, the salt is there, but the overall profile is sweet. That’s what this cake has got to be, right?
And this is where I get schooled in Vietnamese street food. The egg yolks are powerful, along with an egg cream. The salt profile is, like, pow. There’s a floss on top, as well, but, make no mistake, the whole point of this cake is to put eggs forward. (And, you can get it as a cake to take home, or as a single-serve cupcake).
The sponge cake is airy, like a pillow. It has a subtle sweetness that doesn’t fight with the toppings and cream. I’m a bit ashamed to admit this is the first time I’ve tried these Vietnamese delicacies, and I am still stunned by a an sweet-and-savoury dish where the savoury takes the dominant role.
Is it beautiful yes? After you try it, will you be talking about it for days? Also, yes.
An Vat
Strathcona Industrial Park | 3555 Gateway Blvd NW, Edmonton | 780.450.2268 | anvatedmonton.com
