I place a lot of importance on the music that plays in a restaurant. It’s not a throwaway thing. It should be intentional. So, maybe there’s a bit of kismet at play when Talking Heads’ “This Must Be the Place” is playing over the sound system as I take my seat at Bar Henry.
Located right next to the Henry Singer store in the Ice District, this cozy spot is the latest offering from Daniel Costa, who’s been a fixture on our Best Restaurants list for more than a decade. As I sit down, he’s walking the floor, like a conductor checking over his orchestra before the first notes are played. The staff are all decked out in smart, white coats — but don’t be fooled into thinking that this is a stuffy spot. The vibe is definitely low-key, with an emphasis on cocktails, wine and snacks influenced by Northern Italian cuisine.
Of course, I start things off with a Negroni; the presence of the Barolo Chinato turns up the herbal notes even more than you’d expect; the Negroni was a perfect cocktail before — is there a way to make it more perfect? I guess so.
Some house-made potato chips are brought to the table, but the dusting of rosemary and fennel pollen makes them absolutely addictive.
I then order the Cotechino sausage; this is a delicate style that originated in Modena, Italy — and is traditionally a New Year’s indulgence. Heck, Lunar New Year just passed us by, it’s close enough, right? The sausage comes with a sides of pickled radicchio and candied pear with a hint of mustard.
Pear and mustard? It’s amazing how that sweet, with just an air of spice, works with the melt-in-your mouth sausage. The Cotechino is soft, and it’s like all the best pork meals rolled into one — imagine ribs and bacon combined into an extreme flavour pop.
I love bitter flavours — after all, I’m having a Negroni. And the sourness of the vinegar with the gentle bitterness of the radicchio is necessary complement to the richness of the sausage and the sweet pear. It’s a small plate, but it makes every part of the palate go to work.
You could go for brown-bottle beer and wings before the Oilers game; or you could slide into Bar Henry for a cocktail and a snack that might make you forget that you’re supposed to head across the square for the opening face-off.
Bar Henry
Downtown | 10220 103 Ave NW #160, Edmonton | barhenry.ca
