New and Notable: KohSaar Grill

If you’ve spent time on the south side, chances are you’ve driven by the newly built, blocks-long strip mall that’s on the east side of Gateway Boulevard, just north of 34th Street. For what’s seemed like a very long time, this has been filled with dark windows and for-lease signs.

But, over the past several weeks, there have been some signs of life, notably some restaurants that have opened, or signs that they will be opening soon. This mall promises to be a kind of weird and wonderful dining destination, a world away from the fast-food spots across the street.

I made my first restaurant visit to this mall in the past week — I stopped in at the KohSarr Grill, which offers Pakistani fare. Inside, the decor is elegant, with Middle Eastern lamps hung from the ceiling in a rainbow of colours. There is a wall filled with art inspired by Middle Eastern architecture, script and art. There are leathery couches. It’s like an upscale lounge met a Turkish bazaar.

But, it’s the food that makes the place. I started with a sour chicken soup that has a texture that’s almost like a congee, but what’s amazing is that in a soup, the charcoal notes of the grill still shone through. I don’t know how you make soup taste like barbecue, but there is some sort of sorcerer in the back who made this happen.

The main course, though, may have just taken top spot on my “best new thing I’ve eaten this year” list. It’s Shinwari Karahi, which is meat cooked in a wok with ginger, green chilies and tomatoes. I got the lamb, and a side of naan with yogurt. The lamb cubes were soft, tender, with slices of ginger offering a stark, sharp contrast. The green chilies and tomatoes make for a beautiful broth, and there’s spice and sweet and earthiness all mixed together, and it’s all so wonderfully complex. The restaurant just opened this week, so I was asked several times by several different servers if I liked the food or not. Or maybe they just knew the Shinwari Karahi is awesome, and they were fishing for compliments.