Usually, when the Century Hospitality Group opens a new restaurant in the city, there’s a lot of fanfare. But, in the case of Stingray, located in the old Delux Burger Bar location in Crestwood, silence is golden. As in, the restaurant has been open for nearly a month, but are allowing diners to discover it organically, without the big opening nights or Instagram pushes.
Stingray is a sleek, modern spot, with plenty of booths, high-tops and a bar area plunked in the middle. It’s easy to find a spot where you can have a private conversation over dishes that are meant to be shared. Stingray is a new venture for the CHG; the concept is an ode to Japanese cuisine, from the cocktails to the dishes themselves. There are some entrees on offer, and there is a burger (!) on the menu, but the best options are the ones meant for group dining. My wife and I went for a few of the sharing plates, after I started with the Paper Crane, one of the signature cocktails on the menu. It came with a paper crane attached to the rim of the glass — and the combination of whiskey, Aperol and yuzu was sweet and sour, and strong enough not to be discounted as an overly-fruity drink that hides the alcohol.
Then came the Salmon Pressed Sushi, the Broccolini Tempura and the Hanabi.
The pressed sushi was like a take on bagels and lox; the salmon was torched, with black tobiko on top. Is it wrong to call a dish “refreshing?” But that’s what I got out of this… just a little salt kissing the salmon, with almost a creamy flavour coming through in the background.
While the pressed sushi was subtle, the Hanabi was a punch in the mouth. With albacore tuna. spicy mayo and rice infused with jalapeño. I was expecting this to have a kick, but this packed a real wallop. So, make sure to have the drinks at the ready, because this isn’t an offering that sneaks up on you, it goes for the throat right away.
The broccolini tempura offered us a chance to eat our vegetables, but the panko breading was light and there wasn’t a hint of greasiness to our greens.
Stingray
Crestwood | 9682 142 St NW | 780.402.3700 | centuryhospitality.com/stingray
