As I lift up the lid on my order of four suadero (steak) tacos, I ponder what was, seconds before, unthinkable. I see four tacos, served chingones style, with melted cheese and fried onions spread generously throughout. And I wonder, do I actually need to ask for a fork?
Imagine that. Even considering eating tacos in any other way than picking them up and shoving them into my mouth. But, when I open the box that comes out of Taqueria El Chingon’s shoebox of a kitchen, I’m baffled. I’m not sure where one taco ends, and the next one begins. Understand that I’m a messy eater in the best of situations. My coworkers even bought me a man-sized bib to wear during lunches. I have more Tide pens on my desk than, well, regular pens. I turned soup into a table-mounted red fountain. So, trusting me to place my hands in just the right spot, to avoid getting covered in onions and cheese and that delicious smoky salsa… that’s a stretch.
But, I go in. And, success! It’s hard to cram such a hefty taco into my mouth, but with the caramelized onions, the smokiness of the meat and the gooey cheese, it’s something. With a hint of lime, it’s even better. And I recognize that this might be the messiest taco in the city, but it’s also one of the best.
Not bad for a tiny kitchen in a shop that faces an alley just south of Whyte Avenue. But, it’s worth searching out.
Taqueria El Chignon
Ritchie | 8116 101 St NW, Edmonton | 780.722.6916 | taqueriaelchingonab.com
