I walk into PhoEver Bánh Mì Subs & Cafe on autopilot, fully prepared for the usual halal dining struggle: Scan the menu and inevitably end up with some sad, hastily thrown-together veggie option that tastes like regret. It’s routine at this point. But then I see it. The Vegan Lemongrass Chicken Bánh Mì Sandwich. I hesitate. I’ve been burned before by soy curls that taste like soggy sponges, seitan that chews like a spare tire. But I forge ahead and take a seat by the window.
In a city with countless Vietnamese spots, PhoEver Bánh Mì Subs & Cafe pitches itself as “elevated Vietnamese street food” — a refined take on the bold, fast and flavourful dishes found in Vietnam’s bustling markets and roadside stalls. Vietnamese street food has a rich history rooted in convenience and bold flavours, dating back centuries to when vendors set up makeshift kitchens along busy roads, serving quick meals to workers and passersby. Over time, these dishes became a defining staple of Vietnamese food culture, known for its balance of sweet, sour, salty and spicy flavours, fresh herbs and contrasting textures.
At PhoEver Bánh Mì Subs & Cafe, this rich street food tradition is honoured and elevated with house-made components and modern presentation. Appetizers like Shrimp Puffs and handmade Spring Rolls highlight the deep-fried fresh rolls commonly sold by street vendors. Their Bánh Mì sandwiches — one of Vietnam’s most famous street foods — are made with freshly baked bread in-house and filled with choices like Grilled Pork, Satay Beef or Vegan Lemongrass Chicken, all layered with pickled vegetables, jalapeños, and a house-made sauce. The Sizzling Pan-Fried Combo, featuring fried eggs and stir-fried beef with warm bánh mì bread, offers a heartier, more indulgent take on a traditional market dish.
Cafe owners Anne (Ngoc) Ton and Vince Nguyen came to Canada as Vietnamese refugees in the early 1990s. By day, Ton is a junior high teacher and Nguyen an associate director at a pharmaceutical company, but their love for Vietnamese cuisine led them to open their first restaurant — PhoEver Noodles & Grill — with their family’s pho soup recipe in 2017.
For Ton, bánh mì is more than just a sandwich — it’s a taste of childhood, a meal she fondly remembers grabbing before or after school in Vietnam. Her deep love for Vietnamese iced coffee also runs in the family, with relatives back home running coffee shops for over 30 years. Inspired by the popularity of bánh mì and Vietnamese iced coffee, Ton and Nguyen travelled back to Vietnam in the summer of 2023 to train at a culinary school and perfect their recipes, and PhoEver Bánh Mì Subs & Cafe was the result.
When my Vegan Lemongrass Chicken Bánh Mì Sandwich arrives, the first bite is suspiciously good. The lemongrass hits first — fragrant, citrusy, with just the right amount of smoky depth. Then the plant-based meat — coated in their in-house special bánh mi sauce — sneaks in, balanced so perfectly it makes me double-check I’m not eating traditional chicken. Overall, it’s vibrant, well-rounded and deeply satisfying — the kind of dish that keeps you coming back for more.
I spot Iced Salted Coffee on the menu and, already feeling bold, decide to keep the streak going. PhoEver Bánh Mì Subs & Cafe sources its coffee directly from Vietnam’s Central Highlands, a region known for its ideal growing conditions — rich volcanic soil, high altitudes and a cool, misty climate. This environment produces coffee beans with a distinctive depth and complexity. The beans are carefully harvested and processed, ensuring a smooth, aromatic brew that captures the essence of Vietnam’s coffee culture. The Iced Salted Coffee tastes rich and smooth, and that tiny hit of salt that made me initially apprehensive in fact adds a surprising depth. I suddenly find myself rethinking every basic, uninspired latte I’ve ever sipped.
When I leave PhoEver Bánh Mì Subs & Cafe, I’m full, over-caffeinated, and just a little emotional about the fact that I’ve spent years tolerating inferior meat substitutes. I walked in expecting another letdown, and walked out with a new obsession.
PhoEver Bánh Mì Subs & Cafe
Griesbach | 5308 Admiral Girouard St, Edmonton | 587.635.6580 | phoevercafe.ca
