The only spice the chefs use is pebble-sized South American sea salt, rubbed in just before the meat hits the fire. And to prove a point about tenderness, you’re only given a butter knife to cut with. But in case you get a burnt morsel, offset its stiffness with a smear of chimichurri, a green, garlicky dressing.
You should try caipirinha ($9.50), Brazil’s steely yet summery national cocktail made with lime and cachaa (think rum). And you should even force yourself to try one of the desserts, which are light and fruity, especially the Sagu ($7). It’s a coconut-cinnamon cream that’s smooth as yogurt atop a Brazilian red wine-pudding layered over tapioca balls with the fine texture of caviar rather than bubble tea pearls. (9929 109 St., 780-756-7030, pampasteakhouse.com) –Omar Mouallem
Rustic Italian
Corso 32 is not a walk-in kind of place. Because of the tight seating, along with the buzz generated by chef Daniel Costa, you need to make reservations three weeks in advance.
But, boy, is it worth it.
Costa isn’t the kind of chef who puts 30 ingredients together to make one thing. He puts together rustic Italian dishes, where the flavours of the tomatoes, cheese, pasta and meat aren’t obscured. The key is technique.
The menu was created the day before we arrived at the restaurant. Costa rewrites it on a regular basis, creating dishes based on what he can get at the market. There were three entrees and three pasta dishes on the menu that day.
Our meal started with arancini tesa ($13), rice balls with pork and peas, served with fresh mint. Crunchy on the outside, with soft mozzarella cheese inside, they’re simply addictive. If Costa decided to open for brunch, his grilled cheese ($14), served with shaved truffles and an egg on top, would become a Sunday favourite.
The ravioli fonduta ($19) absolutely melted in our mouths. It was soft, and coated with a sauce of pecorino cheese and truffles. For a gourmet entre, I tried the roasted half hen ($21). It spiced with a dry-rub, but the coating didn’t overpower the meat.
Side dishes are served in large plates, so diners can share, as if they were at a family dinner. We had the panzanella ($9), a bread and tomato salad. The crostini soaks up the olive oil, zebra tomato juices and essence of the red onions. So simple, so ridiculously good. (10345 Jasper Ave., 780-421-4622, corso32.com) -Steven Sandor
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