Sushi may not be the first dish that comes to mind when you think of Ukrainian cuisine — but in recent years, it’s become an unlikely staple. Across Ukraine and now in diasporic communities abroad, sushi has taken on a distinctly local identity: richer, heartier and unapologetically indulgent. Opened in January 2025 right by the Citadel Theatre, Ester offers a compelling introduction to this uniquely Eastern European take on Japanese cuisine.
At first glance, the menu looks familiar — rolls with salmon, cucumber, avocado. But a closer look reveals the differences: baked cheese toppings, smoky fish and a generous helping of cream cheese.
The Philadelphia with salmon is a playful twist on the iconic Philly roll, blending tangy cream cheese in place of rice for a richer experience. Crunchy cucumber adds freshness, while sesame seeds lend a hint of earthiness. A sprinkle of tobiko introduces a delicate pop of texture, and a generous drizzle of unagi sauce ties it all together with a sweet-savoury finish. This sushi blends indulgence into every bite — satisfying and smooth.
The baked salmon roll is nothing short of comforting. Inside, it features a trio of salmon, cream cheese and avocado. On top, a layer of cheese is baked into a golden crust. Warm and melty, it delivers richness without overwhelming the palate, and of the two rolls, this proves to be my favourite.
Ukrainian sushi first gained traction in the early 2000s, as Japanese food trends began to reach post-Soviet countries. Smoked or cooked fish replaced sashimi-grade cuts, and ingredients like cream cheese and mayonnaise became staples — creating an entirely new, comfort-forward interpretation that quickly became a regional favourite.
Cream cheese, in particular, emerged as the signature element. Familiar, hearty and accessible, it helped transform sushi from an imported delicacy into an everyday indulgence. Add to that a cultural preference for baking, frying and bold flavour combinations, and you have Ukrainian sushi — creamy, crunchy and proudly unconventional.
Ester Sushi
Downtown | 9828 101A Ave, Edmonton | 825.963.1331 | ester-sushi.online
