Soft-Food Diet, Week 9 of 12: D’Arcy’s Smokehouse Restaurant
Barbecue spot in St. Albert is the result of a name and menu change
By Steven Sandor | November 9, 2023
Sometimes, you need to shake things up. Some do it by sending a struggling goalie down to the minors. Some do it by changing the name and identity of their restaurants.
While I am sure that my mouth is pretty well healed up a little more than two months after dental surgery, I’ve still got some time to go on my restrictions. And this week, I went back to a spot I visited back in week five.
How does that work, do you ask? Well, shortly after I visited Links WoodFire Sausage Co., the ownership of the St. Albert eatery went through with a decision to change the name and the menu of the establishment. Yes, it’s the same ownership, but the Links sign has come down. It’s now D’Arcy’s Smokehouse Restaurant, with a selection of slow-cooked meats and sides — and house-made sauces. So, why not return to try out the new concept?
I ordered the two-meat platter, with beef brisket and pulled pork. It comes with two sides, and I went with the pit beans and potato salad.
The beans are cooked with maple syrup, molasses and bacon — and, yes, I am writing about a side dish before I get to the mains. Consider it a teaser, like the opening act before Iron Maiden hits the stage. It’s pretty pleasing, and you should always get beans with your barbecue. Because, if you’re eating something as rich as barbecued meats, why not go with a rich side dish?
Now, to the meats — and the sauces. The bourbon sauce came highly recommended — it’s the most popular option in the early weeks of the restaurant’s existence — so I added a dollop of it to my pulled pork. And, yes, the bourbon sauce had plenty of tang. Usually, pulled pork is my No. 2 when it comes to things that come out of the pit; but on this plate, it’s the star of the show. It’s rich, it’s smoky, and it held its moisture really nicely. Definitely, a satisfying choice.
The hickory sauce, which I paired with the brisket, was a lot more subtle. The smokiness isn’t as pronounced with the brisket, but it pulls apart with a fork. Really, the knife just came for show. There were some great fatty bits which made for some truly decadent bites.