I am sitting with my lunch companion in the Emperor’s Palace, and it’s about half full. Some of the Lazy Susans are filled with dim sum dishes, other diners are handing their order cards to their servers. But we wonder just how much more busy this Chinatown standard would be if the area felt more welcoming. The Emperor’s Palace sits right in a hub of activity for the city’s houseless population. It’s an example of the friction that exists between the mental-health, addiction and houselessness crisis, and the fact that the city’s Chinese community takes the brunt of the impact.
And this is why it’s important for us all to support restaurants like the Emperor’s Palace. Once inside, the service is fast, the dim sum carts whisk by, and the food is simply delicious.
Look, if you’re doing dim sum, you’re going to order siu mai, the pork and shrimp dumplings that are the cornerstones of the Chinese snacking experience. A plate of four very plump dumplings arrive at our table; these are larger than what you find in most restaurants. Each bite is a mix of savoury and sweet, with the shrimp adding a nice background element.
The sweet pork buns are decadent. They’re sugared on top, like a cookie, with a sweet pork stew inside. Also, for those who like nutty flavours, the taro cake is worth a try. While it’s called a “cake,” it feels more like a savoury square, with a meaty gelatin on top. And, then, one of my favourite Chinese dishes, beef ribs with black pepper, served with a black-bean sauce. They’re bony, yes, but the sauce is lip-smacking good.
Emperor’s Palace Chinese Cuisine
McCauley | 10638 100 Ave NW, Edmonton | 780.757.2288 | emperorspalacetogo.com
