It was Christmas dinner and I was faced with a platter of cheese-filled, pastry-covered appetizers. Normally, this would be reason alone to celebrate, but not that day. I couldn’t eat them. I had just committed to a dairy-free, gluten-free, meat-reduced diet due to allergies and lifestyle choices. At the time, avoiding wheat, meat and cheese at Christmas seemed a Herculean task.
Fast forward a year, and I’m planning on making a stuffed squash without any dairy, wheat or meat for my partner’s allergy-free, meat-loving family during our first Christmas together. Until this year, I had never stuffed a squash before. A few times a season over the last three or so years, I would pick up an acorn squash, bake it with brown sugar and butter (or vegan margarine), and eat it for dinner, unaccompanied. I have bigger dreams this year.
Allison Landin, a holistic nutritionist with Le Soleil Health and Wholeness, tells me that she likes to stuff an acorn squash with sauted apples, shallots, pecans and quinoa. The dish appeals to me not only because it satisfies a craving for decadent, roasted flavours, it also fuels the body with an array of essential nutrients, including vitamins A and C, along with anti-inflammatory agents, such as omega-3 fatty acids. Alas, not every dish on the Christmas table will be made of squash. I expect there will be the usual suspects that I can’t eat, like dinner rolls and pie. And therein lies the challenge.
Food and the holidays are so interconnected that it’s difficult to deal with restrictions that mean you can’t indulge in the traditional items most people would have on their Christmas dinner tables. “You really want to be able to engage in that culture of celebrating the holidays together, and when you have to not partake or partake very awkwardly in the meal, it can definitely be a bit frustrating,” says Mike Brennan, co-proprietor of the vegan food truck Sailin’ On.
In a rather tragi-comic example from one of his first Christmases as a vegan, Brennan recalls: “In the early 2000s, I remember sitting there and eating a white bun with carrots and peas on it because that was the only vegan thing I could eat at my family dinner.”