It’s not often that we’ll write about a restaurant’s potential. Was the service at least decent? Was the food worthy of recommendation? Did the atmosphere of the eatery make for an enjoyable night out? It’s pretty much “do or do not, there is no try.”
But in the case of the Backyard Smokehouse, potential is the key word, here. I took my family to the Ontario-born mini-chain’s new Edmonton location, the day after its grand opening. It was pretty clear that the staff, bar and kitchen were still working out a lot of kinks. The drinks came well after the meal was served. Appetizers showed up after the mains. Staff came by with plates of food that were meant for other tables. I think waiting a week or two, till the wrinkles are ironed out, would be the thing to do.
But, does the barbecue spot have game? If you’re in a group, the best bet is to order a platter. You get to pick two meats and some sides, and you get the requisite white bread, corn bread and garlic toast, too. There’s also one barbecue sauce that comes to the table, so don’t expect an overwhelming series of thick and/or runny options.
Of course, we got the brisket, and then option two was the lamb rack.
The brisket had some beautiful black edging, and lots of marble in the meat. The salt profile might surprise some (it’s bold) and the sauce provides a tangy, but not overpowering foil. It is soft enough that you don’t need a knife.
But the lamb shank was the highlight. The meat was soft enough to fall off the bone, and the balance of lamb’s earthiness, along with the smoke, made for a heck of a meat treat. It’s unusual when another meat outshines the brisket, but that was the case here.
As for the sides, the mac and cheese is pretty darn creamy, and the deep fried pickles, well, deep fried pickles are always awesome. If you have a group of three or more, I’d recommend ordering an extra side because the portions you get with the meal aren’t massive. But, after all, you’re here for the meat, right — and there was enough protein on the platter that we needed a box to take the leftovers home.
The Backyard Smokehouse
McArthur Industrial | 13503 St. Albert Trail NW, Edmonton | 780.391.7373 | thebackyardsmokehouse.ca
