Welcome to Edify’s new summer steak series. We are here to convince you to try something new, to know what to ask for at your local butcher shop and to increase grilling prowess and confidence. Beef is expensive, so don’t leave your efforts to chance. It makes sense to ask an expert’s advice.
For our first steak, we checked in with an expert to ask about how to cook a Denver cut. And to find out, frankly, what the heck it is. Summer is short. Eat better beef!
The Denver is a cut from an animal’s shoulder, or the “chuck primal.” Most cuts from the chuck primal are lean and therefore tougher. “But Denver steak is a diamond in the rough — it’s far more tender than other pieces from this section,” says Kyle Iseke, owner of D’Arcy’s. The reason, he says, is that the Denver is surprisingly well-marbled with fat.
The Denver has only been called that since the early 2000s. It came from an American campaign to convince people to eat more beef by providing a wider variety of cuts. Prior to that, it might have found its way into stewing meat, because it’s a little tricky for a butcher to harvest the steak from the leaner cuts around it, according to Iseke. The Denver is from a relatively small muscle, so there are only a handful of Denver steaks on any given cow, he says. Careful butchering “gives you the best yield and marbling for the Denver steak, which helps the butcher assure a high quality,” he says. “It’s also really important to make sure the steaks are aged before butchering to enhance the tenderness and flavour. I prefer dry aging, however wet aging works as well.”
“Asking for a Denver steak is the best way to get one!” jokes Iseke. He recommends cutting the individual steaks to a minimum of one inch thick. “But you can also request the thickness, we can custom cut any size if needed.” He suggests a wagyu Denver steak if you want an elevated experience. Wagyu is a type of cattle originating in Japan and now produced in Alberta, too. Cuts from wagyu are more highly marbled with fat. “It is a touch pricier,” he says, “but you’ll get an insane level of marbling and way more bang for your buck.”
Iseke says it’s not a cut you can get away with cooking more than medium rare, or it will be too tough. “Denver is best prepared hot and fast,” Iseke says. “If you have the chance to do it over some quality lump charcoal I’d recommend that, but a cast iron skillet or a nice gas grill would work just as well. As there is plenty of marbling, I like to do a dry rub so that the quality of the meat can shine through.”
For the most part, you can follow the standard rules for grilling steak. That is, bring the steak to room temperature (or near it), pat it dry, add salt and pepper or your favourite steak spice and cook on an oiled grill over high heat. A medium rare Denver should read about 135 F using a meat thermometer. Plate the meat and set aside, loosely covered with foil, for five to 10 minutes before slicing and serving. A Denver can also be served with a bit of blue cheese butter or a ramekin of honey-soy-ginger sauce.
D’Arcy’s Meat Market
St. Albert | #50, 40 Chisholm Ave | 780.418.1200
Rideau Park | 4211 106 Street NW Unit 176, Edmonton | 780.438.9202
darcysmeats.ca
