There’s a growing movement in our digital age to appreciate the older, analog ways of doing things. Along with mechanical watches and cars that don’t rely on a computer, this includes vinyl records — and places to listen to them.
What does this have to do with food? Bear with me, we’ll get there. There’s nothing cooler than a vinyl bar, and they’ve been popping up all over the world, especially popularized by Japan’s jazz kissas, listening bars that took off there in the 1970s but have proliferated in the rest of the world since the turn of the century. When I found out about a vinyl bar just outside of Ardrossan on Range Road 21, it seemed like the kind of oddity that can’t be missed.
While the U-Turn Eatery’s vinyl record gimmick caught my attention, the food is the reason I’ll go back.
I opted for the Frisco Burger Melt, a beef smash patty with chaga cheddar, caramelized onions and black garlic aioli between two toasted slices of sourdough served with a truly enormous portion of smoked gouda cheese sauce. I expected that sauce to come in a small carafe, instead it was an entire frying pan of gooey goodness perfect for dipping the sandwich. The toasted sourdough ensured that nothing fell apart and provided ample room to both hold and dip at the same time.
The thick crinkle-cut fries are almost more like potato wedges, perfect for scooping the gouda sauce that my sandwich didn’t soak up. The whole deal paired perfectly with the Manual Labour Brew Co. Red Ale I ordered, and on a future visit I have my eye on the Espresso Peppercorn Steak Pieces and their green peppercorn aioli.
My wife ordered the Nashville Hot Chicken sandwich, which was a buttermilk chicken thigh, sweet pickles, roasted poblano peppers, garlic chili oil and ancho chili aioli and jalapeno hot sauce on a sourdough bun. She also agreed that we should go back soon.
U-Turn Eatery is the latest venture from Andrew Jacek, a graduate of and former sous chef for NAIT’s culinary program who started Jacek Catering and the Okanagan Beach Club. Beyond the food being excellent, Jacek makes an effort to support local suppliers, from the region’s many microbreweries to farms and produce gardens. The restaurant’s baked goods are from Bon Ton Bakery, the coffee is from Sherwood Park’s Roasti Coffee Co., meats and produce are sourced from Codiak Farms, Holden Colony, Rosewood Farm and others. Oh, and they have Little Bear Gelato for dessert, too.
In addition to the dining room and bar, U-Turn also makes room in its converted house for a local goods market, where you can get some of the preserves and other food products they use in their dishes and other non-food items like candles. Other ways the business seeks to create community include open mic nights, acoustic brunch sessions and sunrise yoga.
U-Turn proves that classic flavours and culinary innovation go well together, and there’s good food and community building to be found wherever you might look for it. As for the tunes, when I was there they were spinning up the Greatest Hits of Bob Seger. It might not be old time rock and roll every time, but the food is sure to impress.
The U-Turn Eatery
52404 Range Rd 221, Ardrossan, AB | theuturn.ca
