From the outside, Emrld. is a mystery. The tinted windows obscure the action inside, so when I step through the doors, I am pleased to find a fully packed restaurant. It’s Friday night and there’s a DJ curating the soundtrack. It’s clear that people are enjoying themselves — nearly every table is full with 20 to 35 year olds, all of whom appear enthralled with their conversation and drinks.
The host takes me and my dinner companion to a high-top table near the bar. There is a minimum of three bartenders shaking, pouring and serving libations. The waiter arrives with the food and drink menus. I’m anticipating high-end prices, but they are more modest than I expect — a welcome surprise given the polished atmosphere.
The menu is impressive, and nearly 50 per cent of the offerings are gluten free — this lights up my dining partner’s face as he is often relegated to salad and ho-hum lettuce-wrapped options. We choose the Hokkaido Scallops to start: four seared scallops with brown-butter caper sauce, roasted cauliflower purée, candied lemon peel, beetroot coulis and microgreens.
The dish does not disappoint. The scallops are cooked to perfection, the beetroot coulis and microgreens give it visual flair and the candied lemon peel offers a surprising contrast. I overwhelmingly approve: candy on a plate is never a bad thing for my sweet tooth.
For mains, my partner decides on the Cognac Striploin and I go with the Chili Maple Glazed Chicken. It doesn’t take long for our meals to arrive, and when they do, I instantly know this place takes plating its meals seriously.
My dish is balanced, with contrasting colours, textures and flavours. The chicken is tender, the pan-seared potatoes are crispy on the outside and pillowy on the inside — but the standout is the miso mushroom ragout that accompanies my chicken. The sauce is both savoury and sweet, and I use every forkful of chicken to mop it up. Yum.
The steak arrives just as my companion ordered it and he appreciates having the accompanying cognac gravy on the side, because only a small dollop is required for maximal flavour. The garlic mashed potatoes are creamy and the broccolini has the right amount of crunch.
I’m a sucker for crème brȗlée — I’m on a mission to find the best in the city — so when I see Date Creme Brulee listed, it’s the clear choice. The silky creme infused with dates and topped with carmelized figs is an excellent finish and is more than enough to satisfy the two of us.
On my way out, I notice a fluorescent sign on the wall, to the right of the bar, “Where evenings turn golden.” How fitting … as a longtime Edmontonian, I do love me some green and gold.
Emrld.
Wîhkwêntôwin | 11026 Jasper Ave NW, Edmonton | emrld.ca
