Is it still a doughnut if there isn't a hole in the middle?
By Steven Sandor | June 8, 2023
The problem with reviewing a doughnut place is that, well, if I was to sample a little bit of all the treats on offer, my blood sugar would go to 11, like a Spinal Tap concert.
So, I did some advance scouting on Fuzion Donuts, which has been a staple at farmers’ markets in the city but opened its brick-and-mortar location a few weeks ago. You can find it near the corner of Stony Plain Road and 170th Street. When I took a look at the Fuzion website, a few of the cream filled doughnuts caught my eye — even though, when they don’t have holes in the middle, are they still doughnuts? This is a question that will not be answered in this space.
But it was the Root Beer Float that held the greatest promise. How does one make a cream filling with root beer? Well, as it turns out, this doughnut is one of the best I’ve had in Edmonton. It comes topped with a pop-bottle gummy, the doughnut itself is light, and there’s a bit of salt that makes everything pop. But the cream? It’s like a root-beer punch in the mouth. It’s rich, and it’s just so much fun to eat. Did I poke my finger inside, after I took my first bite, so I could try some of the filling on its own? Yes I did. Because, when it comes to this doughnut, it’s no crime to play with your food.