The local asparagus you find in Edmonton was pioneered by Doug and Elna Edgar of Edgar Farms. Despite the prevailing wisdom that the spring vegetable was not a viable crop for our province, that did not stop the Edgars from deciding to grow it in their farm back in 1986.
“It is a blessing having it accessible all throughout the year, through imports, but it doesn’t beat the fresh thing,” says Elna. In Alberta, asparagus season goes for six to eight weeks, between May and the end of June. And that’s the only time we can savour “fresh, beautiful, sweet and tender asparagus.”
Ordinary seventeenth-century English people called it “sparrow grass,” a possibly deliberate mispronunciation of asparagus, which was a newly-introduced delicacy of the day. Surprisingly, there are still quite a few people who have never tried asparagus.
So, for the curious, Elna describes the raw vegetable as tasting similar to baby peas. It shares a similar vegetal flavour profile to other grassy tasting vegetables — think brussel sprouts, broccoli and spinach.
The sweetness of the crop is another detail to note. Based west of Innisfail in Red Deer County, Edgar Farms benefits from its proximity to the mountains. Elna explains that “growing them closer to the mountains affects them too because the cool nighttime temperatures increase the sugar content.”
“People think it is a greenhouse crop — that is a big misconception,” says Elna. “It is an outdoor plant, the roots are in the ground.”
Asparagus is a perennial vegetable, which means it requires a few years for its crowns (root) to fully establish. But once matured, it can produce a spring harvest of edible spears for more than 15 years.
The spears are also fast growing during warm weather. Asparagus can grow seven to 10 inches in a single day. During peak season, they are harvested daily (or on an extra hot day, twice in a day).
Aside from helping add a pop of colour and introduce a crispy tender texture to your meal, this plant’s flavour can be easily paired with almost any ingredient. It is a very balanced vegetable, its taste can change tremendously based on what you choose to pair it with. Almost working as a culinary sponge, absorbing and harmonizing with other ingredients.
It is also incredibly flexible in the kitchen — conforming to your specific palate and preparation style. Whether you choose to roast, grill or steam your spears, they will adapt to your craving. Feel free to fry them or, if you want more of a kick, try pickling them.
Elna’s favourite suggestion: finish them with blue cheese. “Half the people I tell that to at the market go ‘yuck’ but the other half go ‘that is so good!’” she laughs. “It is an acquired taste for sure.”
Caitlyn Elliott, an associate at Salisbury Greenhouse who specializes in perennials, loves pairing it with prosciutto and balsamic vinegar. “It is also delicious raw, dipped in hummus,” she says. She believes asparagus spears go with everything and that is not limited to culinary plating. “Asparagus seedlings also look great with flowers,” with their frilly, pale green fronds. Something to consider for your next centerpiece?
Courtesy of Elna Edgar.
Ingredients
Instructions
