New and Notable: Benaras Vegan Restaurant

It’s been open for dine-in for just a little over a week, so chances are you’ve never heard of Benaras Vegan Restaurant, let alone been there.

But, the meatless dining scene continues to expand in this city, and this spot in the heart of Old Strathcona offers that option for those who have been out looking for vintage clothes, records or just people-watching on a Saturday afternoon.

The menu isn’t huge; there is no need for veggie versions of a dozen classic dishes. What the world doesn’t need is another vegan take on (place name of classic meat dish here). Benaras’s menu is basically a selection of veggie burgers, soups, stews and salads. The basics.

And cocktails. Of course, cocktails.

I start with a gin berry smash, it’s lunchtime, I need to head back to the office, but, heck, why not? It’s got a lot of smashed blackberries and strawberries, so much of them that the flotsam and jetsam jams up the straw. It’s best to toss it away and not drink this like an adult. With a lot of fresh mint, this is a refresher that screams patio season is coming soon.

Then, I get the Green Veg burger with a side of chili. A lot of vegan chili is pretty mid; it’s heavy on the beans, feels more like a soup than a stew, and it’s fine. But this chili is pretty remarkable… it’s hard to believe there’s no meat in there. It’s hardy, it’s got a bit of zip and tang, and it really is a lot more than a placeholder of a side dish.

Thankfully, the Green Veg burger patty isn’t one of those vegan meals that tries to be something that it’s not. This isn’t one of those “I can’t believe it’s not meat, when I totally can tell it’s not meat” patties. This is a garden burger, not an imitation meat burger. When you bite into the patty, it’s green — there’s a softness and a gentle sweetness that you don’t get with meat. It’s an entirely different flavour profile.